The dips are where most Greek meals start, and where most people order on autopilot: hummus and tzatziki, because those are the two names they recognise. There are better choices sitting right next to them.
Tzatziki
Strained Greek yoghurt, cucumber, garlic and olive oil. In a good tzatziki the cucumber is salted and squeezed first so it does not water the yoghurt down, which is why it should be thick enough to hold its shape on the spoon. Cool and sharp, it is the dip that goes with everything off the grill, which is why it comes with our mixed grill feast.
Tyrokafteri
The name means, roughly, "hot cheese". Feta whipped with red pepper and paprika, with heat that builds slowly rather than hitting at once. Salty, creamy and slightly smoky, it is the dip people end up fighting over. If you have only ever ordered tzatziki, order this next.
Melitzanosalata
"Aubergine salad", though it is a dip. The aubergine is smoked until the flesh collapses, then mashed with olive oil and, in ours, roasted pepper. It tastes of smoke and summer. It is also vegan and gluten free.
Hummus
Hummus belongs to the whole eastern Mediterranean rather than to Greece alone, and every country has its own opinion about it. Ours is Greek style: chickpeas, tahini and lemon, smooth and bright rather than heavy. Also vegan and gluten free.
One that is not a dip, but should be
The oven roasted feta: feta baked with onion, tomatoes, peppers and spicy pepper, finished with olive oil and oregano, and served with pitta. It softens into something you scoop, so it belongs in this group.
How to order them
For two people, pick two or three dips rather than four, then add something hot and something crisp. Four dips and nothing else gets heavy by the third one.
The Nonos meze for two does the choosing for you: hummus, tzatziki and tyrokafteri with Greek salad, olives and pitta. It can be served vegan on request.
Keep the pitta coming. Scooping is the whole point.